1 November
I returned back from Anstirabe on Saturday night in time for dinner and then bed (we eat dinner at 8). The next morning at our 7:30 breakfast my mom informed me we are going to see her family that morning. Thankfully, I had enough energy to comply. As we headed on a pous to their home I noticed the sidewalks near the cemetery, that are normally empty, were full of fake flower stands. Considering I had been away for two weeks I figured this was a new thing.
As we arrived at the compound where my mama grew up I took in how lovely it was and I was not at all surprised to see she had grown up well off. We sat in an cool, outdoor dinning room waiting for the others, and as the sun shown I was struck by how wonderful it was to be back in Toliara where there is sun, rather than the gray skies of Anstriabe.
Soon, we all pilled into a rented truck and to be honest I didn't think much about where we could be going. Within moments we stopped at the very flower stands I had seen and I realized, as I looked around and saw all the people in the cemetery, that today was November 1st - All Saints Day. After accompanying the family to buy flowers we headed out of Toliara to the hills. After stopping for a few soft drinks we found ourselves in the desert hills at a single grave, that of my mama's mama who had died one year before. I watched as the young man finished painting and the family secured the flowers they had purchased, my mom served us coke, I took a few pictures, and then we left. Having visited my grandparents' grave in the States I realized the ritual was quite the same, minus the white wash.
As we headed back into town I noticed the white specks on the people we passed, evidence that they too had been to visit their loved ones' graves.
Soon, I found myself at the second graveside with much the same story. Having only recently talked to the youth about this holiday I knew a family meal was to follow. As I sat and waited with the women we were served all sorts of fruit jellos while the men drank alcohol and ate meat appetizers. We too were given a meat appetizer and then served the main meal that the younger women helped prepare. After eating our fill I couldn't help but think that this surely was a complete entrance back into life in Toliara.
My mama soon noticed my lack of energy from traveling the day before and sent me home to sleep, and that is just what I did. I may have been traveling on Halloween and unable to celebrate the way they do in the States, but celebrating "All Saints Day" was a good alternative.
A few cultural notes...
We wore lambas, or large fabric around our waist, for this occasion. This is the same dress for funerals. My mama also had me grab the hat she bought me because of the sun.
As we arrived at the compound where my mama grew up I took in how lovely it was and I was not at all surprised to see she had grown up well off. We sat in an cool, outdoor dinning room waiting for the others, and as the sun shown I was struck by how wonderful it was to be back in Toliara where there is sun, rather than the gray skies of Anstriabe.
Soon, we all pilled into a rented truck and to be honest I didn't think much about where we could be going. Within moments we stopped at the very flower stands I had seen and I realized, as I looked around and saw all the people in the cemetery, that today was November 1st - All Saints Day. After accompanying the family to buy flowers we headed out of Toliara to the hills. After stopping for a few soft drinks we found ourselves in the desert hills at a single grave, that of my mama's mama who had died one year before. I watched as the young man finished painting and the family secured the flowers they had purchased, my mom served us coke, I took a few pictures, and then we left. Having visited my grandparents' grave in the States I realized the ritual was quite the same, minus the white wash.
As we headed back into town I noticed the white specks on the people we passed, evidence that they too had been to visit their loved ones' graves.
Soon, I found myself at the second graveside with much the same story. Having only recently talked to the youth about this holiday I knew a family meal was to follow. As I sat and waited with the women we were served all sorts of fruit jellos while the men drank alcohol and ate meat appetizers. We too were given a meat appetizer and then served the main meal that the younger women helped prepare. After eating our fill I couldn't help but think that this surely was a complete entrance back into life in Toliara.
My mama soon noticed my lack of energy from traveling the day before and sent me home to sleep, and that is just what I did. I may have been traveling on Halloween and unable to celebrate the way they do in the States, but celebrating "All Saints Day" was a good alternative.
A few cultural notes...
We wore lambas, or large fabric around our waist, for this occasion. This is the same dress for funerals. My mama also had me grab the hat she bought me because of the sun.
Can you find my hat in the picture below?
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